StarFire instructions

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE INSTALLATION

www.grubeeinc.com These Instructions are Copy Righted: Rev. Jan 10th, 2012

New; GT2-SM SuperMouse > 50cc / Internal CDI & 203 crank brgs. Angle Fire Sq. Head;
New: GT5-SR SuperRat > 70cc / Internal CDI & 203 crank brgs. Angle Fire Sq. Head;

Kit Box Contents:

50cc or 70cc integral CDI 2 cycle gas engine made for V frame mounting:
Chrome exhaust muffler; Tear Drop 2.5L Fuel Tank with shut off valve
Drive chain; either 415 or 410. Sheet metal Chain guard;
44 or 50 tooth 9 hole Sprocket with mounting hardware to fit a 36 spoke wheel;
Ball bearing chain idler: Push button clutch lever,
Carburetor: Twist throttle with integral kill switch: Tool kit with extra parts.

Mechanical aptitude and ability is required to perform this installation. Many "do it yourself" backyard mechanics will find this project rewarding. A love of small engines is the only required catalyst for this project. However, installation is best done by a professional mechanic. Designing a custom installation of your own can be a rewarding experience. Remember, a quality installation is paramount to your safe usage and long term satisfaction. You may find many uses for this engine kit. Such applications include but are not limited to table saws, chippers, grinders, belt or chain track elevators, push me tractors, river boats, power wheel barrows, tillers, bicycles and go carts. Have fun and good luck with your motorized project.

STEP #1 Mounting Engine:

1. The engine mounts in a 70 degree angle "Vee" tube frame. It is best to make sure all 4 engine studs are securely bottomed out in the engine before mounting. Use a Jam nut procedure to tighten studs.
2. Consider using Masking or Duct Tape on the front down-tube & seat tube of your bicycle to protect the paint finish while test fitting the engine to your donor bike. If the distance between the two frame tubes exceeds the engine mounting span then additional spacers or welded brackets may be required. Mount the engine to the seat tube first and then fit to the front tube. If frame tube fit is smaller than engine clamp dia. use strip shims to fit.

If you have one of these new Gen III engines no need to mount an external CDI module.

CDI magneto module is mounted inside the engine with the super size magnetic rotor. An engine kill switch wire goes to the male spade terminal on the CDI and the other switch wire goes to a good grd.

Special FrontMounting

When installing engine in a odd size frame it may be necessary to modify the existing front mount. This is due to some oversized down tube frames being longer or wider then the motor is designed to fit.. If you find that the front engine mount will not reach the down tube when the motor is mounted to rear tube you will need to make modifications. You can use the extra mt. block found in the tool kit to space the engine forward by cutting it to fit and installed it at the rear. Another idea is shown in the diagram at the right)

	Figure 1. You will need a 3/16" X 1" flat steel bar 5 to 7 inches long. To determine the length you will need attach the motor to the rear (seat post) down tube.Measure underneath the motor on the frame to makes sure there will be enough room to mount the bar on the motor and meet the front mount of the engine. The length will also depend on the distance from the frame to the motor.
	Figure 2. Drill three holes in the flat bar. They will need to accept 6mm bolts or 1/4 US thread depending on your choice of bolt. For the left hole use the furnished large down tube adapter to determine placement of the hole. The measurements for the two right wholes are an estimate and may vary with individual installations.
	Figure 3. Bend the bar as shown in figure 3. The front, or left side must be bent up high enough to connect to the mounting holes on the front of the engine. It is important that the two bar ends are parallel to the frame not to each other.
	Figure 4. Align the furnished large tube adapter to the bar and mount to the bottom of the bar. The bar will run through the space for the frame on the motor and the mounting holes will rest on the adapter.
	Figure 5. Mark where the mount will rest on the frame, be sure to line the mount up with the frame so it is centered and straight.. Remove the motor from the frame. Drill two holes through the frame using the finished mount as a guide. Bolt the mount to the frame. On the bottom of the frame use half moon caliper brake mounting washers.
	Tighten the bolts securely but do not over tighten or damage to the frame may occur . Use Lock-tite or similar product on the bolts and buts along with lock washers.

Engine Mounting Ideas you can make or buy:


a.) Flat Plate with Single U Bolt:	b.) Dog leg plate and single U bolt:

c.) Curved Plate with dual U bolt:	d.) Welded on Pedestal mount design.

d.) Weld on Pedestal front mount w/ rubber cushion	Optional Front Mt. Kit

Rubber wrap should also be used to isolate the rear mount on the seat tube if an alum. frame is used.

MOUNT ENGINE IN FRAME as low as possible: AVOID BEING TOO HIGH UP IN THE FRAME.

If engine is mounted at a high angle position the chain will hit the sprocket cover. Keep as low as possible.

Remove front and rear fenders for safe operation: End user assumes all product liability as prime contractor:
Note: Quality Beach Cruiser bikes work good as well as do the classic 70 degree old time European style.
Note: Front mount size is different with new 203 brg. block engines versus old style 202 block engines.

1. If the rear frame tube from the seat down to the pedal sprocket is too small to fit the rear engine mount, a rubber shim can be made from an old bicycle rubber inner tube. This also helps reduce engine vibration.
Engine needs to have the carburetor set in a level position. Too much engine tilt can cause chain to hit the drive cover and the engine to not run correctly due to carb. float angle. It is best to have the drive chain to rear wheel sprocket be as horizontal as possible with no more than 15 degrees max engine tilt. After the desired engine location is determined mount the engine to frame. LocTite thread lock is recommended to avoid loosening due to vibration. Note: All threads are metric.

ChainWheel Sprocket Installation:

The Drive Chain Sprocket has a 36.9 mm dia. center hole and mounts on axel hub on the left side of the rear wheel against the spokes dish side in. The sprocket must fit over the hub in a perpendicular plane with the axle. This insures that your rear chain sprocket spins true with the rear bike wheel. *NOTE: On some older bike axle hubs like on coaster brake models it may be required to slightly enlarge the sprocket center hole to obtain a flush, and concentric fit next to the spokes. This is best done on a engine lathe by a professional machinist.. . It is also recommended that the rear wheel be re-spoked to 12 ga. spoke wires to
insure long life. Most any Bike shop can do this operation for you. Applying thread adhesive and equal tightening of the sprocket bolts. This keeps the chain sprocket true with axle and free from wobble while spinning. With bike upside down spin wheel and check sprocket for wobble. The chain can jump off the sprocket if the sprocket installation is done incorrectly
1. For kit sprocket installation, locate sprocket on axel hub with curved side next to spokes, shinny side in. If not pre sliced, cut the rubber isolator ring between holes in order to fit INSIDE the spokes and around the axle. Install the split steel retainer plates next to the rubber isolator and insert 9 bolts.
2. Secure with 9 bolts compressing the chain sprocket to the spokes. Note: Rubber isolators may be needed on both sides of sprocket for chain alignment.
3. The Chain Sprocket on the Wheel must align within 1/2 cm to the Chain Sprocket on the Engine.
4. The wheel chain sprocket is mounted with teeth-out and dish-in next to spokes. SEE FIG. #2

Place Sprocket’s bright chrome side inward next to spokes with dished side outward:

Figure #2 - 9 slot - ChainWheel Sprocket mounted concave dish side inward:

Options available from your dealer:

The drive chain can be easily shortened to the correct length. Special tools are required to remove and replace the master link when shortening the chain by removing links. Ideally, both your pedal drive chain and your engine drive chain should have the same ension.

A. Remove left rear cover plate from engine. This is the plate next to and under the clutch swing arm.

B. MASTER LINK

B Your engine may come with a standard bike chain or with a Heavy Duty 415 chain depending on how it was ordered by your dealer. Engine drive sprockets are different depending on chain size. The 415 chain uses a wide drive sprocket and the std. bike chain uses a narrow one. A 415 chain will work with a narrow sprocket but a std. bike chain will not go over a wide drive sprocket. Note: Install chain with master link clip on outboard side of the primary drive sprocket teeth. ( Note: wide tires larger than 2.125
may rub on a wide 415HD chain: )

C. Use supplied spark-plug wrench to turn engine crankshaft sprocket to feed chain around it. Do not pry sprocket with a screwdriver or similar object.
D. Fit chain, measure and remove excess links to assure proper length. Be sure master link connection rides on the inboard side of the primary drive sprocket or interference of link and sprocket can occur. Proper chain length is when top chain has ¼ inch to ½” deflection with the bottom side of the chain loop tight.
E. Chain tension adjustments can be made by pulling rear wheel back if frame has straight slot wheel drop out. If both chains can be adjusted equally then installing chain idler on the wheel strut may not be necessary. At installer’s discretion the chain idler can be installed on either the pedal chain or engine drive chain.
F. Install supplied chain safety guard by attaching to engine and wheel axle struts.

Engine Kill Switch installation

A) Install Engine Kill Switch Wire on throttle to spade clip on the CDI located inside the magneto box. Install the other wire with eyelet to a good frame ground not on paint. This will ground ignition and stop the engine when the kill button switch is activated.
B) Route all wires away from engine exhaust heat. Secure wires with a plastic tie straps.
*!WARNING! Engine operation without the stop or kill switch installed could result in personal injury if an emergency stop is required! The only alternate way of killing the engine is by releasing the clutch lever with bike brakes on and the engine at slowest idle rpm.

Carburetor Choices with Gen III SuperRat Gt5-SR & SuperMouse Gt2-SM

Clutch cable installation and adjustment:

A) Install clutch lever to left side of handlebar and attach cable end barrel into lever arm slot hole.
B) Squirt oil down the cable sleeve: Route clutch cable through the ball-mount on the engine with the big spring around the cable jacket and ahead of the ball mount. The big spring serves as a cable heat shield.
C) Insert cable wire through small spring and route through clutch arm and attach brass cable-end and screw. Adjust cable tension to allow very slight play in arm. Handlebar clutch lever must be in the released or outward position to complete this operation.
D) Activate lever a few times, and check clutch arm for slight free play: About 1/16" engine clutch arm free play is required with the handle bar lever in the released in what is called the clutch engaged position or the engine will fail to start if cable is too tight. Re-adjust as required.
E) Basics of clutch operation: The handlebar lever pulls the cable that moves the engine clutch arm. In turn the clutch arm pushes a rod through the motor that pushes the clutch plate out. ( similar to a car clutch.) Releasing the handle bar lever engages the clutch and provides engine torque to the drive chain or to start the engine. The friction of 15 pads on the clutch plate allows the engine to start, and also transmits engine torque to the drive chain. When the bike is in pedal mode the handle bar clutch lever is locked inward held by the push button. In pedal mode the bike then operates in default as it would without any engine. Periodic clutch adjustment is necessary to maintain efficient operation *NOTE: Cut off excess cable extending from clutch arm, before operation, to avoid possible interference with pedals, chain, your legs, etc. See Figure #4.

Carburetor and Throttle Installation:

Unwrap throttle from carb. Install carb. on intake tube and choke lever on handlebar.

Big Intake Tube is on GT5-SR / GT2-SM / GT2A and a Little Tube is on GT2B / & GT5. Intake gaskets are different: 40mm hole spacing for the big one and 30mm on the little one.

The "Magneto" is the heart of the ignition system and is activated by permanent magnet rotation. When a N./ S. magnetic flux field rotates past the magneto coil an induced voltage impulse is sent to the CDI via blue / black wires so as to fire the spark plug at the right time.

Engine firing timing is not adjustable; Position of rotor is fixed to ensure correct timing.

Procedure for attaching throttle cable to NT & SPEED carburetor slide valve:

The small stop on the cable wire end slides through the long groove on the slide valve. Early slide valves were made of brass and later ones are made of black plastic. Beware that there are 2 sizes of black plastic slide valves. Normally; 14.95mm dia. for 66cc and 14.42mm dia. for 48cc are used but slide valve must match the appropriate carb. housing hole dia. to work. Jet sizes are available from 0.80 to 0.65mm.

Note: Speed Carburetors have fuel shut off valve and bowl drain petcock; Also these carbs. have larger 14.95mm throttle slides and outlet openings than found in X brand carbs. The square red or the square black AC is interchangeable with small white or black round versions.

Be sure to check carb. air cleaner attach screws for tightness before installing engine: Air cleaner screw coming loose and entering engine is not covered by warranty;

A.) Note component positions in pictures; Needle clip is factory set in second slot: If a more rich gas mixture is required you can move the jet pin "pac man" clip to the next lower position notch.)
When the throttle is twisted a spring inside the cylinder valve is compressed and the slide valve is raised to give more air & fuel to the engine. For this to work properly the throttle must twist freely on the handle bar in both directions prior to the cable being installed.
B.) Install twist grip throttle on right side of handlebar end. On some handle bars it may be necessary to ream out the handle ID to fit the bar so that the throttle will twist freely. It never hurts to add a few drops of light wt. oil to let trickle down the cable inside the full length of sheathing.
C.) After installing cable inside the carburetor you are ready to mount it on engine intake tube and tighten clamp screw. Mount the engine so carburetor sets as level as possible.

Internal parts of #3 & #4 YD &YuanDong Carbs are not the same as old style #1 NT & #2 Speed carbs

OFF SET Z CNS Carb Kit: Use this long Z intake tube if bike seat tube has a clearance problem.

Carburetor and Throttle Installation

Unwrap throttle from carb. Install carb. on intake tube and choke lever on handlebar.

       New Big Boss Intake Tube is used on GT5-SR / GT2-SM / GT2A and a Little Tube is on old style engines. Intake gaskets are different: Note: 40mm and 30mm hole spacing.

       The "Magneto" is the heart of the ignition system and is activated by permanent magnet rotation. When a N./ S. magnetic flux field rotates past the magneto coil an induced voltage impulse is sent to the CDI via blue / black wires so as to fire the spark plug at the right time.

       Engine firing timing is not adjustable; Position of rotor is fixed to ensure correct timing.

Note: All StarFier kits come with throttle cable pre-attached to the carburetor.

All CNS carbs have an external cable choke control. Be sure to check carb. air cleaner attach screws for tightness before installing engine in frame: Air cleaner screws coming loose and entering engine is not warranty; CNS Carb. Service repair kits are available:

CNS-YD Carbs have plastic slide valve and external choke control cable. All have cable adjust top turrets. Note cable lead end and slot position of plastic collar for intake tube.

Reference for is the Standard SPEED Carb. Throttle with Kill swt. Throttle Cable

This Reference is for Standard SPEED Carb. Only:

Procedure for attaching throttle cable to carburetor throttle slide: The small stop on the cable wire slides through the long groove of the cylinder valve and is held in a slot at the end.

Fuel Tank installation

A) Attach fuel petcock to tank. Use Teflon tape to seal threads. Careful not to strip threads.
B) Mount tank on bike top crossover frame with two supplied brackets and nuts.
C) Attach fuel line from tank to carburetor. Best to use USA made fuel line like GoodYear SAE 30-7 4.8mm obtained from local automotive stores like AutoZone. Factory supplied clear plastic line gets hard over a period of time. *NOTE: Filters are contained in the petcock and in the carburetor inlet. If engine runs poorly clean the valve filter as residue from the tank may have clogged it.. It is highly recommend that a tank liner coating be applied inside the tank before installation. This product is called Kreme and is available from motorcycle dealers;

Your engine is a 2 cycle design, therefore, a gasoline/oil mixture is necessary. During the break-in period (1st gallon of fuel ), the ratio is 16 to 18 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. After the break-in period, the ratio can increased to 25 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. *NOTE: Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil can also be used to insure proper engine lubrication. Consult your WD dealer for his recommendations for your climate and elevation.
!WARNING! Remember safety first: Wipe up any spilled fuel. NEVER fuel a super hot engine or smoke while fueling. This could result in sudden fire, personal injury. Move yourMoped at least 10 feet from any fueling area before attempting to start the engine. Never leave the tank fuel cap off after fueling as rain water will contaminate the fuel.

MAINTENANCE SECTION

# 1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :
A) Disengage the clutch by pulling handle bar clutch cable lever inward and push the lock button in.
B) The bike should now roll easily. Release the clutch lever and bike should slide the rear wheel.
C) If the rear wheel does not slide when the lever is released this means the clutch needs adjusting.
D) Remove the clutch cover and then remove the locking screw that holds the Clutch Adjusting Nut.
E) Pull the clutch lever arm on left side of engine inward. Back off the Clutch Adjust Nut ½ turn CCW.
F) Release clutch lever arm and check for 1/16" slight clutch arm free-play.
G) Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get the required 1/6" clutch arm free play.
H) Now Repeat the B) roll test. Rear wheel should now slide when the handlebar lever is released.
I) Be sure to re-install the small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut.
G) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.
H) Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull.

Instructions for Drive Sprocket & Crankshaft Gear Puller.

This tool is found in the engine kit tool bag: It is used to remove both the output gear B-5 and the 10T drive sprocket.


To remove primary 10T drive sprocket secure sprocket from moving and remove nut. Screw in puller tool to the threads in sprocket internal ID.

Tighten puller tool securely;

Hold tool with end wrench while using ratchet on tool bolt to push on the output shaft which causes the sprocket to lift off the shaft.


To remove engine B5 gear;	Secure clutch gear and remove slot head nut;	Remove star washer;


Reverse bolt in puller tool;	Secure tool in output gear;	Hold tool with end wrench and ratchet bolt CW.

ENGINE MAINTENANCE TIPS

2. Carburetor
Per instructions from the Dept. of EPA the idle and air fuel mixture screws have been epoxy sealed at the factory to avoid end-user tampering. Depending on dusty riding conditions, clean air filter every 5 to 20 hours of operation by removing the filter cover to access the screen and element. Wash element with a degreasing agent such as Simple Green™ or Purple Stuff™. Be sure element is completely dry before re-assembly. IMPORTANT: If engine runs poorly clean tank shut off value filter. If engine needs more fuel to have more power move the pac-man clip on the needle down to the next notch position.

#3. 3 pt. Spark Plug
Remove spark plug and inspect for excess carbon build up. Clean, re-gap to .0.036" of an inch if necessary. Check plug after every 20 hours of operation. New spark plugs are available from your selling dealer. Be careful using aftermarket spark plugs as heat range and threads differ greatly. An extra plug is included:

#4. Exhaust system
After 50 hours of operation check exhaust pipe for excessive oil and carbon build-up. If muffler is clogged your dealer has replecements. Make sure attaching nuts are tight and no exhaust leaks are occurring. Be sure to use supplied support strap to secure exhaust muffler to a solid anchor point on bike frame or engine.
A) To remove inside exhaust insert loosen the retaining screw on end cap and remove.
B) Pull cap and baffle out of pipe. If you need a replacement muffler contact your dealer. Clean with degreaser, rinse and dry. Re-assemble: File muffler attach flange to have smooth flat surface.
C) Always use a new exhasut gasket and good idea to use double nuts on muffler attach studs;
*NOTE: Excessive periods of low speed operation, idling or leaving fuel petcock in the "on" position during shut down periods may cause the muffler to become clogged with unburned fuel.
#5. Every time bike is ridden check the tension of the drive chain by:
A) Rolling to bicycle forward to remove slack from the bottom of the chain.
B) Find the center and push downward on the top of chain while measuring the deflection.
C) Tighten chain if deflection is more than ½ inch
#6. Head Bolts Tighten all fasteners after each five hours of operation. Most important to check Cylinder head bolts : Tighten in a X pattern to 10 ft/lb using a torque wrench. A two piece cylinder and head design engine requires head bolts be kept tight. Important: Check head bolts before each and every long ride, vibration can cause them to loosen and blow a head gasket. Caution: Do not over torque or head bolts may break off. ( Twisted or broken head bolts due to over tightening is not covered by warranty. )
#7. Right side gears: Remove cover plate and keep small amount of heavy grease on gear train. Do not over grease as leaks will occur and also may adversely affect clutch operation. Regular greasing if required will help reduce gear wear and keep gear train quiet.
#8. Left side drive: Routinely pack grease in the shaft hole behind 10T sprocket

General Information
Obey all traffic regulations. Always wear a helmet while riding. Remember that you are riding a motorized bicycle and other traffic may not be able to see you. Never operate your motorized bicycle on a pedestrian through way or sidewalk while the engine is operating. Never operate your motorized bicycle in an unsafe manner. Check local and state laws before riding on streets & wear a helmet.

ENGINE STARTING & OPERATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ THIS: Gas and OilMixture for Fuel ratio

The engine is a 2 cycle design, therefore, a gasoline/oil mixture is necessary. During the break-in period (1st gallon of fuel), the ratio is 18 parts gasoline to 1 part 2 cycle oil. After the break-in period, the ratio is increased to 25 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. The engine crankshaft bearings are lubricated from the oil in the gas mix. A rich break in mixture ensures bearings will not cease. !WARNING! Remember safety first: Wipe up any spilled fuel. NEVER fuel a hot engine or light a cigarette while fueling. This could result in sudden fire, personal injury. Always move your motorized bike at least 10 feet from any fueling area before attempting to start it. Never leave the tank fuel cap off after fueling as rain water will contaminate the fuel and cause engine failure.

Step #1. After filling tank with the correct oil/gas mix open the tank fuel valve. Fuel line is in the open position when the small lever is pointed down. Move choke lever to the on position. This is the small lever at the end of the choke cable All the way Up the choke is on. All the way Down the choke is off. Move progressively downward to off position during engine warm up period.

Engine Starting procedure for Lever Clutch Models:

1. Pull the handlebar clutch lever inward, to disengage the engine from the rear wheel.
2. Pedal; (down hill if possible for first start)
3. A mid frame or rear wheel bike stand is helpful to start the engine in place.
4. Let out the clutch lever all the way out and continuing to pedal. The result is a direct engine hook up via the friction clutch with the rear wheel via chain and sprocket. The engine will now start spinning, Pedal until motor starts. Accelerate slowly at first..
5. Twist throttle to increase speed, reverse twist throttle to decrease speed. To stop, disengage clutch and apply brakes. To accelerate, pedal and release clutch while opening throttle.
6. Adjust choke to the smoothest engine running position.
7. After warm up push choke lever all the way down. If engine races too fast, or too slow, pull clutch lever and lock in the notched catch, stop and adjust engine rpm.
8. If the rpm needs adjusting, turn the idle adjust screw (left side of carburetor) in or out slowly to obtain the proper idle speed of about 1400 rpm +/- 100 rpm To correctly break the engine in, Do not exceed 15 mph or 30 min. continual running for the first 50 miles during engine brake in. Engine will develop more power after break in.
9. To stop the engine, push Kill switch and turn off gas valve at tank. Turning off the gas will prevent fuel from being siphoned from tank. Warning Note: Never leave the tank gas valve in “open” position” when engine is not running or the bike is in storage.
10. After or before each ride check all mounting fasteners, including hd. Bolts, axle and brakes.
11. Warning Note: Engine lock up or piston seizure due to improper gas / oil mixture will not be covered by factory warranty. This the responsibility of the owner / operator to make sure the gas and oil is mixed correctly.

ENGINE WARRANTY POLICY:

Proper use and maintenance is required for the continued enjoyment of your Bike Engine. This product has been manufactured to strict quality control standards. For product warranty policy contact your selling dealer. Warranty approval is subject to factory inspection and only the defective part or parts 15 will be replaced, not the complete kit or engine. Only the defective part or parts should be returned to the selling dealer for warranty replacement consideration. Your dealer may require you to obtain his authorization first before returning defective parts. Include description and picture of failure with as many details as possible. Note: Seized pistons due to improper gas / oil mix or shipping damage due to carrier neglect is not warranty.

When replacing the spark plug in an Angle Fire head it's best to use a 3 point electrode spark plug P/N Z4JC to ensure total combustion.

Chrome parts for engine dress up are available from your selling dealer;

Ask your dealer for the China GAS Alum. frame w/ built in gas tank & pedestal mount.

For a ProShop installation ask your dealer for the China GAS Model #2 HD axle kit;
( Complete assembled Rear Wheels for 1 speed or Multi speed 26” bikes are available.)

Some SkyHawk WD distributors in the USA and Australia have complete rear 26" wheels with the Model #2 HD axle pre-installed. This is the pro-shop installation route. Double wall HD rims and 12 ga. spokes.

GruBee HD axles avoid clamping the engine driven sprocket to spokes. Instead said sprocket is bolted to a screw on CCW hub and lock ring that assures true alignment and enhances long lasting durability.

Pull 2 pins to pedal with no restriction and stick them back in to motor.
Ask your WD if he stocks HyBriPed. If not; ask him to order some from China GAS.

www.hybriped.com / www.chinabestexporter.com

When replacing the spark plug in an Angle Fire head it's best to use a 3 point electrode spark plug P/N Z4JC to ensure total combustion. ( Ask your selling dealer for it by part number. )

Parts Reference:

The ETHANOL 101 Home Study Course

What you need to know about Ethanol fuel when used in small engines;

Outdoor power equipment dealers and mechanics are finding themselves dealing with a flood of frustrated owners experiencing engines not running right or having gummed up carburetors only to bring them back a month or so later with the same complaint. What the customer does not realize is that the problem is not the engine! It's the fuel!!!!
The introduction of ethanol, otherwise known as alcohol, into the fuel has caused a wide range of problems. While ethanol is regarded as a fuel, blending it with gasoline results in these 4 conditions.

Rough idle:



Hard starting after leaving the engine sit idle, ( not used ), for several weeks :



Gummed–up carburetor jet:



Loss of power:

Ethanol in gasoline breaks down and forms gums very quickly. Ethanol and Gasoline do not chemically bond with each other, instead they are held together in a loose colloidal suspension much like you would see in an oil and vinegar salad dressing mix. The fact is ordinary fuel adjustment additives developed 50 years ago and still on the market today do not correct these 4 ethanol problems.

1. Debris in gasoline caused by Ethanol.

Varnish Gums form in the fuel tank and in the carburetor bowl as E5, E10 & E15 ethanol fuel ages. These particles can clog Filters and Needle Jets. Modern day fuel additives break down the enzymes into sub micron sized particles that can be easily burned during the combustion process.

2. Excessive water in the fuel and phase separation.

Ethanol attracts moisture from the atmosphere and forms a ethanol and water mix in the gasoline. Ethanol blended fuel will naturally hold 0.5% water in separation, but when water levels exceed this threshold, or when fuel cools significantly, the water/ethanol mix drops out of suspension which is called phase separation. Excessive water in the fuel causes engines to run rough, stall and can lead to internal engine damage. A good fuel additive allows the water to mix with the fuel and get burned off to create a dried out tank result.

3. Ethanol fuel breaks down quickly.

As ethanol evaporates the fuel looses octane and becomes what is known as "stale". This causes hard starts and engine rattle as well as loss of power and engine damage. A good fuel additive will enhance correction to fuel break down for up to 2 years.

4. Ethanol causes lost power and lost performance.

      Ethanol added to fuel does not allow as much energy as traditional gasoline. This results in poor engine performance. A good adjustment additive will break apart large clusters of fuel molecules, creating more surface area. This in turn allows additional oxygen to react during combustion which results in complete fuel burning and reduces toxic exhaust emission.
      The laws of some states in the USA do not require the gas station to tell you how much ethanol is in the gas they sell. E-10 or 10% is supposed to be the legal ethanol limit but up to 50% has been found in some off-brand gasoline. Adding a dry gas additive is not the answer either as these products contain more alcohol which now you know is really Ethanol and will just accelerate the problem into the realm of the third kind.
      Having said all the bad news here's some good news! There are some additives on the market that will in fact correct the short comings of having Ethanol in gasoline and will allow easy starting even after extended long periods of not running the engine. These additives must contain enzymes that allow more oxygen to bond with the fuel hydrocarbons thus allowing a more complete combustion burn of the fuel charge. This translates into these advantages.

Easier Engine Starting:

Better throttle response:

Decreased exhaust emissions and decreased visible exhaust smoke:

Prevention of varnish gum deposits:

Increased fuel economy:

Helps prevent Phase Separation that can occur in stored fuel when water and ethanol bond together and then falls out resulting in degraded fuel that prevents good engine performance.

The best policy is to avoid using any gasoline with Ethanol in it. This 101 article does not recommend any brand of additive for Ethanol correction, however here's a brand claiming to have benefit; 

StarTron WWW.STARTRON.COM

SuperRat Gt5-SR & SuperMouse GT2-SM have intake tubes with boss for bottle boost connection.

Boost Bottle theory is that the bottle at the end of the plastic tubing line has cc capacity equal to one cylinder displacement or larger. Said bottle container momentary is a storage location for pre-atomized air / fuel mixture. The air / fuel mixture from the carburetor moves at high velocity while traveling through the intake manifold heading toward the piston cylinder. When the piston moving upward suddenly closes off the intake tube opening the air/fuel mixture has inertia that carries it into boost bottle container. This inertia (pulse) forces the pre-atomized mixture that's already in the tube from the previous cycle into the intake manifold that's ready to receive the air / fuel mixture when the piston moves downward. Compare this process to a little supercharger for each piston cycle. This happens very fast at higher rpm's meaning that bottle boost is most effective at lower and mid-range rpm. It takes time for venturi velocity to atomize raw fuel from the carburetor main jet. The tube / bottle has a charge of pre-atomized fuel that is instantly ready when the operator is going off and on the throttle. It assists in filling the cylinder for a fraction of a second until the carburetor venturi gets enough velocity to fully atomize the available fuel. The advantage of bottle boost is that it brings up the torque and horsepower sooner in the lower rpm ranges.